Keep Calm and Carry On (Creating)
By Louisa Smith
The Mood at the Fair
‘We are in it together’ was the mood at this week’s European fabric fairs, as mills refused to let the helter-skelter movement in the Euro put a damper on the season. True, it wasn’t a buoyant, ‘let the good times roll’ atmosphere, however both exhibitors and visitors carried on business with a steady assurance that there were opportunities in the market, even if one has to look a bit harder to find them.
Première Vision is still the doyenne of the textile industry and mills exhibiting here offered a calm oasis, steadying the nerves of visitors, which was reflected through the innovative collections on offer. We saw a particular focus on soft touch and ethereal, almost dreamlike aspects in many of the new fabrics for the season. But is this calmness a calm route to recovery or is it that eerie calmness one senses just before a mighty storm? Feedback at the show indicated that the industry believes that it is important to stay the course and that business will recover in due time – if not this season.
The feeling at the show was that there were fewer visitors at this session, although some mills noted that they had been busy. Nonetheless, we definitely noted that there was less frenzy around the trend areas, with buyers calmly analyzing and noting fabric developments.
One major shift is that mills are more flexible, reducing minimums, offering in-stock services, and while the show focuses on the Spring/Summer ‘13 season, many mills were ready to deliver short order for Fall ‘12. For buyers, cautious and squeezed to the point of indecision, last minute ordering is becoming a standard practice, and mills are recognizing the need (and opportunity) in accommodating them.
The advantage of Première Vision is that it is geared towards the medium to high end market. Here quality and creativity are key, and through these collections mills are gently encouraging designers to give up basics and start offering consumers quality products with a sense of fashion (please no more basics…!).
WHAT WE HEARD at Premiere Vision
- Buyers ordering closer to the season. Many mills were selling fabrics for Fall ’12 orders.
- Greater transparency. There is a shift, especially for the brands that source at Premiere Vision, towards quality products. The true value and content of the product must be traceable, applying in particular to responsible manufacturing and codes of contact.
- Greater flexibility from mills, shorter lead times, lower minimums.
- Price isn’t the sole focus. It is still important and everyone negotiates, however equally as important is consistent quality combined with punctual delivery.
- Linen is the new noble fiber for the season giving an earthy and sustainable aspect to traditional fabrics. We saw it in both knits and wovens.
- Performance, especially from basics. Functions including anti-UV, bi stretch, mono stretch, quick dry, breathable, water repellant, are no longer confined to the activewear industry and more relevant in the ready-to-wear sector.
Trend Directions
Transparency was a key trend direction noted throughout the fair, however transparency went beyond the usual visual aspects of the fabric. As one exhibitor told Inside Fashion, “buyers want transparency throughout the entire textile chain to pass onto their consumers. Anyone can say they use a recycled yarn or a certain eco finishing process, however there has to be transparency and traceability to ensure the consumer that she is getting value for money.”
Contrary to popular hype, consumers are ready to pay a premium for a quality product that is reflective of its true value.
While calm surfaces, transparency and a subtle palette was a strong direction, the industry hasn’t gone soft. In contrast to this trend there was an injection of fluorescents in all sectors of the industry, ready to jump start the season. While this is clearly a niche trend, and will be used primarily in trims rather than in full bodies, it is a clever way to generate some visual energy.
Prints also proved this point, working the color spectrum to brighter hues and natural nuances. This season prints are bold – they might be macro, landscape, or micro, but above all else they are invigorating.
See an executive summary of What We Sourced at Premiere Vision.