Combining creativity with chemistry, denim offered yet another season of newness. Just how does denim continue to reinvent itself? For the main part it is the close-knit denim community that drives this favored fabric into new directions over and over again. As one exhibitor at Denim by Première Vision (Nov 30-Dec 2) told Inside Fashion, once you work in denim you never leave! It is this passion that drives the reinvention of this staple fabric over and over again.
The buzz at the show shifted from the previous season’s worry over cotton prices to a focus on new collections and finishes. Even the ever present grumbling about the European financial crisis wasn’t going to deter these diehard denim aficionados. Denim is standing strong regardless of whatever else might happen in the market.

Last season the industry beat its chest over the unsustainable aspects of denim processing. The lament continued, however this season turned up a variety of new developments to set denim on a more eco-friendly course. Mills are not going to crucify themselves over manufacturing processes, but are looking to introduce new equipment and chemicals that reduce denim’s environmental impact.

“One of the things we are expanding is the sustainable line. We are working with [Patrick Yarns] a yarn supplier in North Carolina who use recycled fibers and solar panels for energy. Soda pop green and water cooler blue for spring is the perfect story,” said Kara Nicholas, vice president of new product and marketing. “I think there is interest in trying to do something that is eco friendly. The customer feels good making a contribution to the environment, as well as being comfortable in these fabrics which have a soft hand,” she explained, referring to the blue and green tones coming through in cotton/polyester blends.

Waterless finishing is now par for the course. At garment finisher Sartex (Tunisia) environmentally-friendly chemical products that reduce water are the buyers’ favored choice. “ We are using laser finishing and ozone machines. With the ozone finishing we can clean the surface of garments without using water and we also use a stone finish without water,” said Mounir Zarrad.

Eco-jeanious is part of the waterless package from Ereks (Turkey). “First of all we are using zero water; we are also using environmentally friendly chemical washings. Without water you can also involve laser, although you do have to use electricity to use laser,” said Onur Petek.

But not everyone is prepared to go waterless to get the authentic denim look that will make them stand out from the rest, nor are some brands concerned on price, if the ultimate look in denim through fiber, construction and finish is achieved. “It depends on the client, if they want washing effects we can use less water, it is all up to them. We can use alchemies to get the kind of softness they want. If we reduce two rinses, we eliminate 2000 liters of water per machine,” said Mr. Petek. But at what cost to buyers? According to the majority of launderers it is minimal when the energy and water savings are taken into account.

US Denim’s (Pakistan) new development, Advance, uses less water consumption. While there is a small premium, it is negligible compared with the water savings. “The basic aim is to be more ecological, more green. What is different is that this is done at the fabric stage. You see a lot of waterless finishes at the garment stage, so this process is very new,” said Syed Adeel Haider, US Denim’s marketing manager.

The good news is that cotton prices have finally stabilized after an erratic run that peaked in March 2011.

“When I am dealing with my suppliers we are under pressure for price,” said Simon Platts of Blue Method, denim supplier to major UK retailers, explaining that his customers were aware of the price decrease and wanted it passed onto them. “Four or five years ago a nice denim quality was $2.50 a yard. They had gone up to US$4.10 a yard, and are now down to US$3.90 a yard, but haven’t gone back to the original price.”