From Trashy to Classy
Spring 2010 will bring a sweeping change into the fashion world. We will witness a return to conservatism. From silhouettes to prints to color palettes, we expect to see the consumer toning it down…way down…from previous seasons.
But many designers are still showing collections that are hardly toned down, you say. To this we respond that firstly, change evolves - and only when there is a certain critical mass are we aware that a change has occurred. We have seen waistlines inching up to one’s actual waistline since spring 2007. Necklines also moved back in to the vicinity of the neck. So this direction was already underway…the seed had been planted. Further, let us point out that just because designers embrace a look doesn’t mean consumers will too. We’ve seen many retail “losers” come parading down the runway over the years!
Secondly you have to consider the general mood in the consumer markets – or at least in the developed markets today. People are feeling conservative. The financial meltdown has left people feeling economically cautious, but more importantly there’s a strong, grass roots level backlash against the general lack of integrity – both fiscal and moral – that lead to this situation.
We expect consumers will start to eschew anything that exudes vulgarity and begin to embrace things that express a desire for refinement, class, elegance and integrity. It is these elements that designers and manufacturers must incorporate into their collections, and retailers must include in their merchandise mix if they expect to drive broad based consumer sales.
In other words, trashy will no longer be trendy.
This is not to say that there won’t be certain niche segments of the market that will still go for goth and or insist on dressing like a porn star. But the majority of the market – from luxury to mass market – will be choosing much more conservative styling.
So how does this translate into real apparel? Here’s how…
Better quality fabrics. Regardless of the fiber content, take the quality/handfeel up a notch.
Quality manufacturing. This goes beyond fit. Poorly sewn in coating or jacket linings, poor quality interlining (or worse yet no interlining), unfinished seems, poor stitching, shabby pressing… consumers are going to start noticing these things and they won’t accept them.
Alluring silhouettes. Look to the ‘50’s and possible even ‘30’s and ‘40s for inspiration. Notice the emphasis on femininity for women. We’re talking about the slim fitting pencil just above or mid knee paired with stilettos teamed with a softly tailored blouse, as well as full skirts teamed with fitted tops. These looks are subtly sexy – a clingy sweater in 3-ply cashmere, a curvaceous pencil skirt or a sweetheart neckline on a dress. It’s about allure rather than a “reality show”.
Richer colors. Say good-bye to neons (except in active sportswear), grays (way too dull) or childish pastels. Color is growing up and wants to speak for itself in adult language. From rich jewel tones to pastel shades, the key is to find the perfect shade in each palette that is simply…delicious! You know those colors when you see them because you can’t stop looking at them. For example there’s your usual peach and then there’s “I can practically taste it” peach.
Artful embellishment. The conservative atmosphere doesn’t mean paired down. What it does mean is that we will move from embellishment purely for the sake of embellishment. Appliqués, crystals, bows, ruffles, ribbons – and even fabric manipulation – will be placed artfully in order to very deliberately enhance other aspects of the garment.