Paris –  The focus at Denim by Premiere Vision (May 26-28) was on the ‘S’ factor, with sustainability the word ‘du jour’. Now that cotton prices seem to have stabilized environmental issues are back on center stage.  In fact, cotton prices barely came up at all in the conversation.   Instead the talk focused on  “Can water and energy guzzling denim renew itself in today’s eco-conscious environment?” and  “How can it repay and restore the previous damage incurred?” The industry debated the answers to these questions with interesting new solutions emerging.

The key theme of the show was ‘Future Vintage’ highlighting the fact that the authentic feel and lively spirit of denim continues to need the innovative new finishes that we have come to love. Denim might be seen as the bad boy of the textile sector, however it is to important not to dismiss the two million people employed in the denim industry and the consumer’s desire for manipulated and finished denim.

Denim by PV is one of the better shows on the circuit due to its sharp, in depth focus on one fabric sector. Held in an unused Parisian warehouse, the indigo toned collections against contrasted with the industrial steel and gray cement of the venue, creating an edgy, urban platform for the denim industry’s biggest players.

Conserving water is a hot topic in the denim industry right now with the entire supply chain under scrutiny.

“Water is very important. I want to bring an authentic process; it’s not just about laundering.  The process starts with cotton growing,” said Adriano Goldschmied, the man behind some of denim’s world famous brands as Diesel, Replay, AG Adriano Goldschmied and Gold Sign that have helped to define today’s denim platform. Laundries have been doing their bit to reduce water and chemical use through laser treatment and ozone finishing where no water is required. The results of these new processes could be seen as part of exhibitors’ collections. While some call for water free denim, at this time it is impossible to be water-free from cotton growing through to final finishes.   Denim cannot remain untreated. If it was left raw and unfinished, it still needs washing to fix the indigo dye plus the loose fibers after weaving.

Enrico Silla, founder of Jeanologia, the manufacturer of laser technology and the G2 waterless washing machine believes that the future of denim manufacturing on the finishing front will be water-free. “For me the main challenge is that we are in the fashion industry. People buy jeans not because they need them but because they love them. We need to reduce the eco aspect, but we don’t want to lose the authenticity, sexy spirit, technical angle and innovation. If we eliminate the water from the process we eliminate the problem”

Today the key players in the denim industry are determined to rectify the mistakes they have made over the last 30 years. “In the 60s and 70s when we started with stone and water, we didn’t know what we know today,” said Francois Girbaud, with reference to the stone washing trend he created and the chemicals used to create the authentic denim that began in the 70s.

“Sustainability is also about labor, it’s not just about water and cotton,” said Alberto Candiani of Italian mill TRC Candiani.

But all this talk of sustainability, reduced water, reduced energy and recycled fibers overlooks the equally important aspect of producing an affordable product. Sustainable denim comes at a premium and this is also an issue that concerns mills and brands.

Neil Bell, a fabric developer at Levi’s admitted that pricing is a problem. “The consumer is looking for a fair and honest price, but there is also an interest in sustainability,” he said, adding that he felt it would be the next generation who would be more interested in sustainability.

With a multitude of certification available and no international standards, there can be confusion as to the true eco origin and contents of a garment, and that calls for greater supply chain transparency.

 “We believe that labeling is one of the most important things so that consumers can see where the cotton is from, where the garment is produced, the laundering…we are going to want to know all parts of the process.  This is already being seen in the food industry,” said Mr. Bell at Levi’s.

However Enrico Silla from Jeanologia disagreed “To me it is too early for certification. Today’s certification is too complicated and the consumer doesn’t see the value. If the consumer doesn’t see the value, it is not worth it.”

Responsible production is the way forward but at the same time the technical aspect and innovative processes in denim have to continue. Goldscmied concluded that the importance of sustainability isn’t the only goal: “we have to create an amazing product, if we forget that we won’t have an industry to be sustainable.”

 

Denim trends for Fall 12 embraced the sustainable aspect with dark tones of different luminosity featuring. Structures ranged from classic 3/1 twill to herringbone and nep aspects. Authentic yet soft to touch, complimenting these classics were the lacquered and coated denims with a leather look. Less distressed finishing featured, if it is used it is strategically positioned.