by Michele Kantra

Overall the mood was restrained…non-aggressive. The incoming mood is grounded, not giddy. We’re sensing a new sobriety, suggesting that with the frantic pace of life, customers will be seeking something calmer to wear. We still see embellishment, but coming into the picture as new is supreme simplicity.

New this season is collaboration of Supima’s Prefab show in with Texworld.  Also Supima cotton licensees with sustainable fiber mills partnered with Lenzing. Eco-conscious fabrics continue to appeal to consumers’ quality-driven mindset.

Of the 285 mills at Texworld, 100 were new exhibitors, many of which were creative trim companies. Fabrics overall were very practical for mainstream, and real world retail, offering both wearable classics and interesting novelties.

1. Neutral Calm: Eco-luxury mood in camel, beige, taupe, grey, iced muted pastels. Two moods for this trend. The casual one is cozy comfort, organic, relaxed for weekend and outerwear. Heathers, tweeds, textures with warm and soft hands for knits and wovens. The second interpretation is minimal, clean and commercial for office appropriate apparel, suiting. Patterns are subtle, since all colors in this subdued palette are in a close value relationship.

2. Classy Darks: A vintage feel, dressier category of sophisticated lush fabrics of velvet, wool blends, satins, crinkles, lace and fancies, both glossy and matte surfaces. Deep saturated darks of bordeaux red, navy, plum, teal, black. Accents of gold, copper, silver. This grouping would work for evening and holiday.

3. Utility-WorkWear-Military: Down-to-earth hardworking apparel with added fashion quotient. Khaki, olive drab, brown, terra cotta shades. Sturdy canvas and twills, some softened with wash treatments. For knits, rustic but soft textures. Camouflage  patterns continue.

4. Tech Brights: Functional simplicity in vivid brights, saturated rich color, but not neon. For casual streetwear, activewear, casual outerwear. Some Nordic pattern influences in knits and snow-wear. Mixing with black or denim, these fabrics/colors work for a younger customer, with a more upbeat self-expressive mood. This color palette lends itself to graphic patterns for color blocks and dynamic contrasts.

5. Creative Denim: Indigo wash treatments remain creative, for a naturally worn appearance. We see beautiful unusual faded dye treatments, playing on the tie-dye phenomena. Faded thighs, seats, whiskers, ankle crushes continue. Knee whiskering seen. We’re still seeing lots of abrasion. New variations on tie-dye continue, looking softer, cloudy, mottled.